Unseasonably Warm Temperatures Cause Flooding in Kotzebue

Mid winter in the tundra above Kotzebue.

Weather in the Northwest Alaska region has been abnormal this winter. The National Weather Service began posting coastal flood warnings for Kotzebue and some of the outlying villages yesterday. Reports of flooding in Deering and other villages are making us wonder about what's next for this region during one of the wackiest winters on record?

Yesterday the city of Kotzebue was overwrought with the affects of climate change. Due to the increased snow level and warmer temperatures this winter, flooding caused residents to be evacuated in areas along Shore Avenue. Normally the Kotzebue Sound is quiet beneath four to five feet of ice by late winter. Tides moving in and out go unnoticed under this heavy arctic barrier. But yesterday, the mention of tidal waters rising and causing damage was enough to make residents scratch their heads about the effects of climate change in this Eskimo village of roughly 3,000 residents.

Earlier this week one in a series of blizzards blew off the frozen ocean from the west, carrying with it the warmest air we've had since early October. Overflow water began to appear on the ice while residents traded their thick parkas and ski pants for thinner-insulated jackets. Snow pants were cast aside in favor of jeans and other lightweight pants. Happy for the break between blizzards and joyful over the warmer temperatures, snow machines raced over the thick snow patches and kids played in snow drifts ten feet high and more. We watched the overflow melt increase on top of the frozen sound.

NANA Building in Kotzebue before winter.

And then it happened. The high tide rushed into town and carried with it overflow and chunks of ice. Low lying areas along Front Street (also known as Shore Avenue) and other parts of the city became bogged down with melted snow. Ice mixed with rain fell from the sky creating slush of the snow drifts. Residents living near the NANA Regional Corporation building were evacuated and traffic along the newly improved roadway ceased. City and borough employees were busy in emergency meetings and executing plans to prevent damage to life and property.

Fears of flood water damage to the airstrip were tossed around among residents as Alaska Airlines planes and village carriers finally made their way into town. Winter blizzards carrying heavy amounts of snow and fierce arctic winds had scrambled the flight schedules for more than a week. The Ralph Wien Memorial Airport serves as a vital link to the Outside and to villagers seeking services in Kotzebue and beyond. The Kotzebue airport is a vital link for mail and supplies to the region. This Eskimo Village would be cut off without the airport. In an effort to restock the stores, bring vital mail to residents, and provide access to village residents, Alaska, Era Alaska, Northern Air Cargo, Bering Air and other carriers have stepped up deliveries in an effort to restore normalcy to the region.

While areas of the village were experiencing an abundance of water, others went without. In the section of town between the lagoon and Third, residents went without water for several hours yesterday before finally being restored sometime last night. A large vehicle struck a fire hydrant causing a rupture in the water line, severing service to residents. During the winter, hydrants are covered with insulated boxes to prevent freezing. With the line exposed, the potential to lose that section of the line increased with each passing hour.

Kotzebue Public Works line crews dug up the line buried in permafrost in order to repair it. A constant flow of liquid must be maintained in water and sewer lines to prevent destruction by the earth's subzero temperatures. The line crew's efforts based on experience and expertise should be commended.

Construction of the new hotel before freeze up.

With no water in the apartment, Rick and I braved the descending temperatures and fierce winds to dine at Bayside Restaurant last night. Prevented from parking along Shore Avenue due to flooding, we parked the vehicle at the Nullugvik Hotel and walked the remaining distance to the restaurant. While the sun descended in the west, our bodies were aided by strong arctic winds  in excess of 30 miles per hour towards the restaurant. We were fully prepared for the harsh temperatures. The wolverine ruff of my parkie drooped over my eyebrows as I peered down the vacant street.

Yes! Bayside and Empress restaurants remained open. They had not been evacuated. We walked backwards for a short distance attempting to protect the core of our bodies from the piercing wind coming off the Kotzebue Sound. Once inside the restaurant, we sat in a booth with a large window out to the street for a meal of Korean dumpling soup and a steak sandwich with fries.

The light returns to the sky again this morning rising slightly earlier than yesterday. Today the sun will be in the sky for more than nine hours. The coastal flood warning remains in effect until noon today. Water runs through the repaired line and into the homes of residents between the frozen lagoon and Third Street.  The fierce arctic winds have subsided and temperatures register at -11, according to Accuweather.com.

The sound of a prop plane disturbs the early morning quiet as I stare out the living room window at the twenty foot snow drift and wonder whether climate change is affecting life in this remote corner of the world. It's time to make breakfast and enjoy the beauty of this rapidly changing land.

Waiting Out Another Storm in Kotzebue

Blowing snow and -40 degree temperatures in Kotzebue.

Living above the Arctic Circle offers many opportunities to reflect on life or at least have a hobby. For several days now, the blowing snow and temperatures far below zero Fahrenheit has kept us housebound. Winter sickness literally and figuratively has given way to a search for stimulus of different kinds. This winter hibernation in Kotzebue has sent me searching within and without.

The blowing snow reminds me that life Northwest Alaska was a lot different before technology caught up with it. HUD housing, snowgoes, ziplock baggies, the discovery of oil and minerals has created a society where winter hiberation brings depression, drunken binges, people freezing to death, and the death of a culture so deep and long that its preservation is of critical importance. Gone are the days of work to survive. While this may seem like a morbid subject to discuss in a blog, one only has to look around this wild land to see the signs.

When families lived in sod houses, the winter would be a time for craft projects. Harsh winters in buried snow, Eskimos kept busy doing bead work, sewing mukluks, skinning and tanning caribou hides, plucking snow-white ptarmagins. The arctic wind blew across the tundra on the coast. At temperatures of -40 to -50 below zero, men would run their dog teams across frozen rivers and valleys looking for meat to provide freshness to their preserved meat, seal oil, and berries. Survival alone was enough to keep them from idleness.

When the snow travelers arrived in the 1950s, life in this region changed forever. These auto crafts made hunting easier, travel to distant places more accessible, and the ready need for cash to buy gasoline and spare parts when they broke down. Now money had to be made; capitalism had begun to take hold. With the establishment of native corporations that were given the task of being profitable for their shareholders, a subsistence lifestyle was just about finished. Even the last holdouts from civilization were seduced by the advances of modern technology. There was no going back. Only through a blending of the old and the new will provide the path to a better future for the people of this region.

So what do Kotzebue residents do during these Arctic storms? There are the same things that people in the lower 48 do to entertain themselves and pass the days: television, video games, the Internet. Some get involved in such craft projects as quilting and beading, sewing, knitting, crocheting, and scrapbooking.

People also drink; some drink a lot. With the opening of the city-run package store, alcohol is easier to purchase and less expensive. Instead of paying $300 for a 750 milileter bottle of Candian whiskey on the bootleg market, citizens of Kotzebue with a registration card may pick up the same amount for less than $40.

Let us not get into the argument for or against prohibition. Remember that prohibition didn't work during the 1930s. It did not work in Kotzebue either. Controlling the sale of alcohol is a much wiser and more responsible solution to the alcohol consumption issue. The city police and Alaska State Troopers are doing a good job of minimizing the negative affects of freer alcohol consumption.

Weather like this instills a curiosity in weather itself. Accuweather.com is always open on one of the tabs on my Internet web browser. The 'Feels Like' temperature, which factors the temperature with windchill, is of particular interest. As I write this post, the temperature is -1 but with the windchill it is -35 degrees. Most people have never experienced subzero temperatures that low. We marvel at how a person can live in temperatures that cold but we spend most of our time indoors and therefore don't experience such extremes that often.


Rick and I discuss our next trip Outside. Where will it be? What is the purpose of the trip? Will we use air miles to defray the cost? Life is difficult above the Arctic Circle, and time away is necessary. Perhaps we will go to Seattle, maybe Portland or Reedsport on the Oregon Coast.

I gaze out the window of the living room window again. The wind continues to blow the light, whiteness obscuring our view. The day's light has gone; disappeared behind the hills of frozen tundra. Time between television commercials run together. Tomorrow's forecast includes more snow but less wind. Winter weather advisory by the National Weather Service is scheduled to end tomorrow at 6 a.m. Some of those questions and ponderings remain.

Weekend Away from Kotzebue

Tall drifts are fun for the kids on cold arctic days.

Late January and February are popular travel times out of Kotzebue. Seeking warmer climates, residents leave this village above the Arctic Circle for a weekend, weeks or even a month. Rick and I joined those many travelers the first weekend in February. As it turned out, the weather was warmer in this Eskimo village than in Anchorage and Girdwood. Go figure.

During this time of year, the temperatures dip so far below freezing that it can have deleterious effects on the body. The cold arctic wind blows during the day and howls at night. Breathing such cold air can effect a person's lungs. Faces unprotected display a ruddy color or scarring from previous rounds of frostbite.

Face masks, hooded parkies, ski pants, arctic bunny boots or Sorel glacier boots, along with heavily insulated gloves are a must for being outside. Recently I found and purchased a pair of insulated ski pants that would keep the arctic chill off. This is no easy task when temperatures can dip as low as -40 with or without the wind chill. Winter colds and flu runs through families and drives up absenteeism at the workplace. This kind of weather drives people into their homes or Outside.

The sun comes out to greet this Eskimo village earlier each day. We have been gaining seven minutes of daylight since the winter solstice December 22. As of today, there are 7.7 hours between sunrise and sunset. Scattered clouds bring the hope of warmer temperatures as the U.S. Weather Service is predicting snow early next week. We feel blessed to have the sun back. After its lazy showings in December, the sun rises higher in this polar sky.

So to help us endure the affects of such extreme weather, we travel either on business or for pleasure. For Rick and I, it was a combination of both when we stepped off the plane at Ted Stevens International Airport in Anchorage, Alaska.

We left Kotzebue last Thursday, the Alaskan-raised man flew out on Alaska Airlines on the afternoon flight 152 and I on 153. Barely making it on the terminal,  airline staff were close to sealing the door out to the tarmac. Rushing through check-in, Homeland Security quickly passed my computer tote and other belongings through the x-ray machine prior to walking out to the tarmac to board the plane. Snow was gently falling outside. I drew a few short breaths before entering the 737 combie.

The flight to Nome was turbulent. The plane was full of passengers but just one rolling pallet of cargo. During the longer flight to Anchorage, the turbulence was severe enough for the crew to cancel in-flight service after attempting to find some airspace with no bumps. The plane landed at the Ted Stevens International Airport at 10:30pm very close to on-time.

Rick met me on the other side of security. Wheeling my red leather bag out to the vehicle, he drove to Humpy's, a renowned Anchorage pub and seafood place, for a late-night dinner. Darkened lighting, voices, and music enveloped us as we walked through the glass doors. We began blinking our eyelids at the changed conditions. Toto, we're not in Kansas anymore. We sat at a tall table listening to the local band Woodrow while experiencing the culture shock civilization had caused.

Friday was a workday. Rick attended a couple of meetings and I went into our corporate headquarters to meet with our grant writers and work on some projects. Reconnecting with my co-workers is always a treat. During the quiet mornings and early afternoons at the clubhouse, they are a lifeline to me via mostly email. They also enjoy reconnecting as they rarely see their managers who live in mostly rural areas of Alaska. I come with stories of life in the bush. They offer ways to make work easier and how to tap into more resources for the region.

Eating out is something we look forward to on trips out of Kotzebue. We are privy to a wide variety of foods in Anchorage or Outside. We ate lunch at the Middle Way restaurant where they serve foods made with organic produce, whole grains, and light sauces. My heart was panging as I thought of my friend Rosemary, the rest of the editorial staff and the publishers at Northwest Magazines sitting down to potluck lunches on Tuesdays at their head office in Florence, Oregon. Other meals out included dinner at the Alaskan landmark Club Paris, breakfast at Cafe Amsterdam, and a lunch at Red Robin.

Driving the Seward Highway along Turnagain Arm.

Since the purpose of this trip included relaxation time, we drove down to Girdwood. This hip ski town is located off the Seward Highway between Anchorage and Whittier. Driving on the Alaska Highway System to another city is somewhat discombobulating.

Kotzebue, as well as most rural locations, is off the road system. Kotzebue is located on the Baldwin Peninsula 33 miles above the Arctic Circle. The village is only accessible by plane or barge. The closest hub city of Nome is available by plane, or by snow machine or dog sled during the winter.

At the Alyeska Resort, we had scheduled massages at this high-end skiing mecca. Upon our arrival on their circular driveway, we were greeted by a young man who valet-parked the Camry. The lobby of the resort is spacious and warm colors and stone textures gives the place a soothing feel. Their grand staircase led to a large open area on the second floor that contained a lounge with a view up the mountain, two gift shops and the spa. We opened the opaque glass doors and began to melt into the serene vibe of the place.

After receiving some hot tea and completing their questionnaire, we changed into the luxurious terry cloth robes and waited in silence with those who were either waiting for their appointments or attempting to extend their treatment by hanging around in comfortable chairs drinking lots of water or herbal tea. Ciri, a Girdie Girl, gave me a 50 minute, deep tissue massage while Rick received a relaxation massage.

Fully relaxed we drove the short distance off the hill to the Chair 5 Restaurant for a late lunch before heading back to Anchorage. This cool, rustic eatery is known for their pizza but they also serve very good burgers, sandwiches, salads, and soups. The restaurant is a local hangout after a day on the mountain. I was impressed by their taco salad, which is a feast of black beans, yummy salsa, tasty chicken and salad fixings layered on a bed of tortilla chips. Rick had the halibut and chips. Both were outstanding.

Sunset along Seward Highway outside of Girdwood.

We drove back to Anchorage in the late afternoon, fully relaxed and rejuvenated. The cold Alaska air filled the compartment when I rolled down the window to take photos of the snow covered mountains along the Turnagain Arm. Temperatures had dipped down into the teens while the tide rushed out exposing frozen ice on the bottom of this shallow tidal water.

We ate at the Tap Root for dinner and listened to local musicians rocking the packed house. The first act involved a acoustic guitar musician from Seward while the cover band was from Spenard, a former 'red light district' that had been incorporated into Anchorage. They were called Last Train. Awesome guitar playing, drums and three very good vocalists provided the impetus for people to get out of their chairs to dance on the parquet floor until after midnight.

On Sunday we awoke early for we had many errands to run. Travelers in from the villages normally make a grocery run before returning to their homes in remote areas where food is expensive and not very fresh. After finishing up the shopping, getting a haircut, purchasing vinyl fabric for an Eskimo drum-making project, and eating lunch at the Red Robin, Rick drove our silver vehicle to the airport. After checking in, he drove the Camry back to our friends' cottage, plugged the heated battery blanket into the box, and returned to the airport.

I did a little shopping and then called my dad for our weekly visit. During the call, two young girls sat down next to me and drew on their electronic sketch pads. One of the girls had spent an afternoon at the Kotzebue club. I drew a sketch of a woman with long black hair wearing an Eskimo parkie. Her sister drew the same with good skill. We enjoyed our time together before they returned to the gate where their mother was caring for their toddler brother.

Our weekend away was coming to a close. Soon we would walk down the tarmac and join the other passengers heading home to Kotzebue and Nome. Relaxed and well rested back to the Arctic where the temperatures were around 20 degrees and a light snow was falling. We headed back to temperatures that would soon return to well below zero and we were ready.

Spring is coming to this Far North village. With more daylight and warmer temperatures, soon the winter would be a vague memory. But until that time, we will stay warm in our apartment and venture out when necessary to handle day to day living in Kotzebue.