Settling into the Arctic Cold

Friday sunset over the lagoon.

The sun sets much earlier in Kotzebue than before we left on our Alaska Highway journey. As of today, there will be a little more than seven hours between the sun's rise and set. Driving to work in the darkness is not different than many places. However, here in the Far North, the sun does not show itself until nearly noon. The transition from fall to winter has occurred in this town above the Arctic Circle.

Sitting in our cozy apartment, we are buffered from the extreme cold. Tonight AccuWeather.com is forecasting a light dusting of snow and temperatures as low as seven degrees. But one would not know that without seeking those predictions. The overcast sky is no indication of the impending arrival of snowflakes. The weather just is, no rejection, no denial.

Upon return to this far away city, I was amazed by the beauty of sparkling snow everywhere. My footfalls weighed heavily on these light flakes. Roadside drifts of whiteness were something new to me, a rookie to arctic survivalism.

The quiet of fall has been replaced with loud engines of snow gos. For weeks these toys were sitting idle. Somehow cars have been replaced by these fast vehicles. Riders in large-hooded parkies, have replaced the young and adventurous perched on four wheelers.

The barrier between skin and the air has increased immeasurably. I surfed the Internet last night for the remaining articles of clothing sure to protect my epidermis: ski pants, wool longjohns, snow boots with better traction, ski mask, and the perfect ski hat. In my free time, perhaps I will crochet wool scarves for us. Women dressed in beautiful parkies with deep hoods brimmed with wolverine, wolf, or arctic fox are everywhere. Their extreme warmth has stood the test of time.

Decisions about where to plug in the van and other auto protection systems have come into play. When I peaked outside yesterday morning, the motor was running in Rick's rig. With the newly repaired remote start, he had fired up the engine from a window of the apartment. Maintaining a warm engine temperature has become important.

Each morning I peer out the front door to scan the parking lot for newly-fallen snow on the roofs of neighborhood vehicles. Bundling up for the cold, I step outside for the short walk to start up the van's  engine. Stomping feet on the welcome mat, I shake off traces of white from my boots before entering the apartment. A pair of navy slippers await the transfer of warm feet dressed in wool socks. Snow boots, fleece hat, down coat, a fushia-colored and warm gloves are quickly removed. Several times a day these ritualized movements will occur.

Cars parked outside the post office idle as we wait in line to pick up our parcels, some arriving in boxes labeled with Cabela's, Eddie Bauer and others. Sixth Avenue Outfitters sells subzero Arctic wear with Canada goose down, the best insulating material available. This Anchorage-based clothier mails their sought-after catalogs in August. It remains on our wooden coffee table, receiving occasional reviews during tv commercials. The upstairs at the local AC store is filled with artic wear produced by Columbia, Sorel and others.

Shore Avenue near Rothman's Store.

Driving over to Shore Avenue for a lunch or dinner, I feel the Arctic cold hit my face as we step out of the vehicle. A winter paradise spreads out on all sides and on clear days, we can see the nearby mountains now heavily laden with snow.

Stepping into Bayside Restaurant or the Empress, the dry heat of the room causes us to ease off our winter gear. Our bodies yearn for foods that warm from the inside. Steaming soups, spicy curries, spaghetti with chili flakes, red meats in different forms can all be consumed at expensive Kotzebue prices. Sweat beads surface on the bridge of our noses as our bodies heat up from the spice.

Winter sports are in full swing. Ice fishing, cross country skiing, capturing seals when they come up for air, sledding, and dog mushing activities are springing into action during these days of lessening light.  An endless number of football games, NASCAR races, and soon basketball are available for viewing on the increased number of flat-screened tvs purchased with pfd checks or money saved by eating dinners at home. Soon snow machines will make tracks on the iced-over Sound but caution for patchy areas of thin ice will have to be paid. Streets, Swan Lake, and the lagoons are speedways for this winter mode of transportation and fun.

Soon the holidays will be here with all of its innate hustle and bustle. But for now, we will enjoy this settling process, enjoy the beauty of this Arctic land and enjoy the slower pace inherent in the lessening of light.