Trip to Kivalina

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Early morning departure for Kivalina.

This was my second trip to Kivalina, the native village located on a thin peninsula north of Kotzebue. The mission was to provide assistance in this club's re-opening after a two-year closure. When I arrived at ERA Aviation the day after the trip to Noorvik, employees recognized me.

The flight to Kivalina involved two stops: one to the village of Noatak and the other to Red Dog Mine. The tundra was tinged with fushia leftover from the sunrise. The cold weather is claiming the lagoons and lakes with its icy tendrils. Crossing over mountains with snow-tipped peaks, I clicked off photos.

After twenty minutes, we landed in Noatak where our bush pilot began unloading case after case of Pepsi. While loading the atv-powered trailer destined for the native store, its owner commented, "They love soda in the villages."

Two college students climbed aboard with their cameras and overnight bags. They are doing a research paper on how climate changes are affecting native fishing habits in Northwest Alaskan villages. Initially these University of Alaska-Fairbanks women interviewed the village elders but later realized the importance of interviewing younger fishermen as they had also experienced a change in fishing practices.

The air strip at Red Dog Mine was our next destination. This paved and well-lit airstrip is capable of accommodating jet landings. The mine is situated in a small valley surrounded by gorgeous mountains. We picked up a few passengers, including one of my advisory board members.

Kivalina on a narrow peninsula

Heading due west, the passenger plane made its way for the tiny peninsula where Kivalina is currently situated. The town had already been relocated once. Recent discussions about moving the town again had ended with a decision to stay put. With the ocean on three sides of the village, I am unnerved by the narrowness of the land.  Our pilot skillfully lands on their tiny airstrip. There is snow on the ground, and the small ocean waves lap the disappearing beach.

After meeting up with Rose, we rode her four wheeler into the village and stopped at the native store. We decided to do the interviews at the new clubhouse. After finding the heating oil valve, she warmed the freezing room and the interviews commenced -- 11 of them for two positions. Each one desiring a job, most not having graduated from high school.

We took a break for an advisory board meeting. Into the gym we went for cafeteria food and then made our way in the faculty lounge to discuss the progress of the club's opening and how each partner will be benefited by its involvement in the club. A quick trip to the restroom and then the short walk back to the clubhouse, we completed our last interviews.

We made our picks and then it was time to rush to the airstrip to meet our return flight. We walked the short distance to the airstrip and met up with a subsistence hunter sitting on a four-wheeler. The man, dressed in traditional Inupiat clothing, spoke informatively of the caribou's late arrival and which seals to hunt. His mannerisms echoed what I had read in books.

On the return trip, Fritz and I talked of how corporate giving was changing. More discernment of need and a focus on greater impact are two methodologies practiced by corporations. Saying good bye for now, Fritz deplaned at Red Dog. The remainder of the flight included a stop in Noatak to unload passengers and the boarding of a mentor for bush teachers. Our discussions revealed the nature of her work with new teachers, who need additional tools necessary to be successful. The program has been highly successful.

Seeing the Kotzebue skyline, I sighed and the pilot navigated the landing at the paved airstrip in this hub city. After thanking the pilot, I walked towards the white van feeling discombobulated and tired from two days of travel. After texting Rick of my arrival, I drove the short distance home. The familiarity of the city was a comfort of sorts.