Kotzebue in the Spring

Looking out over the lagoon to the tundra from Kotzebue.

In the distance, an occasional dog barks.  Down the dirt road from our apartment Iditorod winner John Baker kennels his dogs. There are also the sounds of seagulls but no screeches from the huge ravens feeding off the remnants of food found in open dumpsters throughout this native village located above the Arctic Circle. Mostly it's just quiet.

Early afternoon as people begin to emerge in Kotzebue.

Since the school year ended, the sleep cycle of many Eskimos living in the Village of Kotzebue has been reversed. Sleep during the day and up in the late afternoon makes for empty streets and quiet in the mornings. Traditionally Eskimos slept during the heat of day and performed subsistence work at night.

The tradition of sleeping during the day continues to be handed down to the young people of this generation. Kotzebue streets are filled with children playing out on bikes, walking the streets, and stomping through puddles until the the late-night hours. Some children at the club brag of the all-nighters they have already experienced this year. Of course not all have the luxury of this lifestyle. Work in this community continues on its normal schedule in a similar way to any community in the Lower 48.

The signs of an early break up can be seen up river. Extensive flooding is occurring in Buckland and the tiny village of Kobuk. Emergency crews from the Northwest Arctic Borough were flown to these remote villages to evacuate residents from their homes to the village schools yesterday.

Nowhere for the water to go during the melt.

The effects of the melt are continuing to be felt here in Kotzebue. This frozen strip of land stands as a barrier to the waters accumulating from melting snow and ice. City public works crews are busy pumping out the excess water collecting in large puddles around the village. Cars and four wheelers ride over the crisscross of swollen hoses that are redirecting the muddy water from the low-lying areas out towards the Sound, lagoon, and Swan Lake.

Mosquitoes are beginning their short lifespan here in the Arctic. A five-year old in the next booth chanted "mosquito, mosquito" at Bayside Restaurant yesterday where I was eating a late lunch. From our vantage, we could see the calming stretch of ice over the Kotzebue Sound.

Construction season has begun along Front Street.

Construction season has resumed along Shore Avenue with AIC working to complete the road project begun last summer. On a walk yesterday, I saw orange cones lining portions of the roadway while a bulldozer moved gravel and dirt that had been barged in last summer from Nome. The huge bump outs lining this street that fronts the Kotzebue Sound will be landscaped with native plants and flowers as well as placement of interpretative signage, benches and picnic tables. The huge sheet pilings that were driven into the permafrost last season are continuing to hold the remaining soil from being washed away. Erosion is a serious problem throughout the Northwest Arctic Borough due to continued shorter and more mild winters.

Construction of the new hotel continues.

The new high-rise hotel that SKW Eskimos, Inc. is building will be completed this summer. This structure dwarfs the old hotel that is located within feet of the new building along Shore Avenue. A proud accomplishment by NANA Development Corporation, the new Nullagvik Hotel is due to open this fall with 78 guest rooms, a year-round restaurant and other amenities.

One of many flights out to the villages.

The loud sound of a prop plane punctures through the silence of this early morning hour. On clear days like today air travel is permissible out to the villages from this hub city. Their loud, engine sounds stand as a reminder of the remoteness of this region where most communities are only accessible by air this time of year.

These planes serve as a reminder of the valuable link between this city to its neighboring inhabitants spread throughout this vast region. The great ice road has already closed for the season. The air has returned to its quiet stasis, and breakfast is calling my name.

Effects of the Melt on Kotzebue

Large puddles accumulate during the melt.

Something I didn't expect to happen so soon did. The melt has begun. People have said this season is the ugliest of the four up here in the Far North. I believe them.

Spring is the season of the melt. The snow melts from the land, and the ice recedes from the shore. For the first time this season, we saw seagulls on the Kotzebue Sound. While some friends and I were having dinner, my friend looked out the window of the Bayside Restaurant and observed that there were seagulls on the Sound.

"There's open water out there," she exclaimed. We stared out the window in amazement partly because the timing is not right. It is too early for the melt. Normally the ice begins to melt later in May. Temperatures normally stay well below freezing at this time.

The warmer weather has had other effects on life in Kotzebue and other places around the Northwest Arctic Borough. Fog. As the air above the ground begins to warm and the snow melts, fog is created. The gray days are upon us, and travel has been made more difficult.

Aerial view of the road leading into Noorvik.

Last Tuesday Rick and I traveled out to Noorvik to visit one of the clubs. The morning flights had been canceled the day before due to fog. Visibility has to be at least a mile for Alaska Airlines to fly their jets and less for the smaller planes.

At the counter of Era Alaska, I paid a little extra for a refundable ticket. As we waited in the small terminal, we talked with a friend who was going out to the tiny village of Kobuk. The fog had begun to clear but calls continued to come in from nervous travelers who were checking flight status for the day's flights. The fog continued to dissipate. Until the woman behind the ticket counter saw the pilots begin to walk up to the terminal, the answer to those inquiring travelers was always that we were in standby. I breathed a sigh when the status changed. Our flight took off soon thereafter.

Another amazement of spring is the increased daylight. As we stared out the restaurant's window on Front Street, we noticed young children playing out. Looking at my watch, I noticed the clock indicated 8:10 pm. Since the sun will not set until 11:35 pm tonight, our bodies are confused about what is our bedtime. Soon our youth will be out of school. Many of them will play out late into the night; some not returning home to their beds before early morning. This habit of daytime sleep during summer is deeply ingrained as their ancestors flipped the sleep cycles to take advantage of the cooler time of day for hunting and fishing.

To force our bodies to stay on their sleep cycle, we have to introduce artificial night to them. Shutting the blinds and closing the curtains tells our bodies that it is time to wind down for the day. I peer through the slats in the blinds in disbelief from time to time.

The miracle of living at the top of the world has been the hours of light in the sky throughout the year from no sunrises to no sunsets. Throughout the year I watch and wait for the sun to arrive as it moves around the Kotzebue horizon. From what direction will it arrive tomorrow, I wonder. Currently the sun is setting in the southwest and rising in the northeast.

Dirty water from melting ice collects in huge puddles on the gravel streets in this Eskimo village. On the few paved streets, the water finds other places to collect. The parking lot at Teacher Housing had a big lake towards Building A. The frozen ground stands as a barrier to the overwhelming bounty of water produced during the melt. Some of the water is drained with pumps by the Department of Public Works. As the sustained temperatures heat up the earth, the water soaks into the marshy soil. Gravel barged in from Nome is used to patch the potholes and ruts forming on the thoroughfares. Brown snow mixed with garbage and dirt is transported on loaders to areas near Swan Lake, the Lagoon, and the Kotzebue Sound.

Gone is the glittery, white blanket of winter. And with it, are the subzero temperatures when layers of clothing assured survival. The humidity in the air increases during the melt. We celebrate the warmer temperatures by wearing lightweight fleece jackets and short sleeve shirts. Sometimes even shorts will be worn. Rain boots replace bunny boots to keep our feet dry and cool. Even with all its ugliness, we celebrate the melt and the coming of spring. We say good riddance to the cold temperatures. For the transplants, we breathe a sigh of relief that we survived another winter above the Arctic Circle.

Easter in Kotzebue and Kivalina

Easter is a time of renewal in Kotzebue.

Easter is a very important holiday to Eskimo people living in Qikiktagruk, or Kotzebue as it is most widely known. A ray of hope shines brightly for these deeply religious people. Easter is a time of renewal and celebration. Their hearts are filled with gratitude for another year of survival and for a resurrection that continues to promise them relief and salvation. The worst of the Arctic cold has subsided, the melt has begun, and the temperatures warm their bodies. Other signs of Easter can be found here.

While Rick and I were out yesterday, we saw many cars parked at the Baptist Church along Front Street. Friday night was filled with praise and worship at the local churches. There are many churches located in this hub city above the Arctic Circle. Represented are the Roman Catholic Church, Episcopal, Quaker (The Friends Church), several Baptist churches, the Church of the Latter Day Saints, and the Seventh Day Adventist Church.

Perhaps there are so many churches in this village of 3300 because the Inupiat people throughout history have been deeply spiritual. Their culture was at one time guided by their 17 Inupiaq values. And at the heart of those values is a respect for elders, for others, and a respect for nature. When the missionaries came to this foreign land in the early 1900s, these people were converted to Christianity. Their native practices were shunned and their children forced to attend schools far away from their parents. As time went on, the Inupiaq values were no longer taught to their children. But those values remained in the hearts of the elders.

Today there are many attempts to bring back the old ways, including the Inupiaq values. At the club, we are teaching the kids those values. The youth are recognizing their use and importance in their everyday life. At the recent Arctic Circle Spring Festival, there were traditional activities including Eskimo football, an ice fishing derby, and harpoon contest, and snowshoeing race. At the awards banquet where the winners of the Kobuk 440 were announced, Eskimo dancing and drumming entertained attendees. Families recovering from addiction may a visit to the old Spud Farm as part of their rehabilitation. These families learn the Inupiaq values and engage in traditional subsistence activities.

Kivalina is located on an 8-mile barrier reef. near Chukchi Sea.

Residents of the Eskimo village of Kivalina celebrate Holy Week with food, prayer, singing and fellowship. Each day Eskimos spend hours collectively in preparation for their most important holiday: Easter. Services on Good Friday and Easter may last up to four hours each or more. As part of the preparations for this most holy holiday, cold storage units are cleaned out in preparation for whaling season. Eskimos in this village 120 miles north of the Arctic Circle continue to hunt beluga whales for their survival. Teams of hunters will begin to follow the ice leads in search of migrating whales. (For a personal accounting of whaling in the Barrow area, click on the link.)

The Alaska Commercial store in Kotzebue displayed the western symbols of Easter. A large display at its entrance contained Easter baskets, candy and lilies beginning early this month. Easter candy was a favorite purchase among youth and adults throughout Lent. Kids showed up at the club on Friday buzzed out on sugar from candy eaten at school that day.

The peace and relief is in the air in this Eskimo Village. May the blessings be realized in Kotzebue, Kivalina and the other villages throughout the Northwest Arctic Borough on this day. May we all enjoy the plentiful light in the sky and the warmer temperatures as the season of Melt continues.

Local Kotzebue John Baker Wins Iditarod

John Baker thanks the crowd for welcoming him home.

Kotzebue welcomed local John Baker after his victory at the Iditarod last week in Nome, Alaska. The local dog musher arrived Monday on Alaska Airlines flight 152. To his surprise, he was met at the terminal by many fans and well wishers. John had broken the race record set in 2002.

The hometown crowd lined Third Avenue from the airport to Kotzebue High School with signs and cheered our hero while John was escorted by fire trucks, an ambulance, along with other vehicles carrying local dignitaries. To his surprise the gym was full of spectators on one side by the time he arrived.

The crowd is entertained by the Northern Lights Dancers.

The community hosted quite a show for John. Words of praise were offered to this local bush pilot who grew up in Kotzebue by the Northwest Arctic Borough Mayor Siikuaraq Whiting, NANA Regional Corporation's president Marie Greene, and City of Kotzebue mayor Eugene Smith. The Northern Lights Dancers performed traditional Eskimo dances while members of the crowd joined in the fun. John gave out his autograph on slips of paper to the kids and thanked people for welcoming him home.

Signs on local businesses praising John's accomplishment can be seen around this village. Rothman's Store hung one near the entrance of their store.  Some wondered when the first place prize would be arriving: a work truck. Would it be transported from Nome by barge this spring or some other route? He also won $50,000.

Villagers enjoy the beautiful weather.

The excitement in the community lingers as spring conditions prevailed in this coastal village located above the Arctic Circle. The temperatures increased to 30 degrees today with an occasional snow shower. Residents are ready for the long winter to end as the hours of daylight continue to increase substantially each day. Time to put up the black out curtains or aluminum foil on the windows. It's time to be outdoors amid the melting snow. While we villagers play outdoors, local dog mushers like John Baker are preparing their teams for the next big race -- the Kobuk 440 which begins and ends in Kotzebue.

Waiting Out Another Storm in Kotzebue

Blowing snow and -40 degree temperatures in Kotzebue.

Living above the Arctic Circle offers many opportunities to reflect on life or at least have a hobby. For several days now, the blowing snow and temperatures far below zero Fahrenheit has kept us housebound. Winter sickness literally and figuratively has given way to a search for stimulus of different kinds. This winter hibernation in Kotzebue has sent me searching within and without.

The blowing snow reminds me that life Northwest Alaska was a lot different before technology caught up with it. HUD housing, snowgoes, ziplock baggies, the discovery of oil and minerals has created a society where winter hiberation brings depression, drunken binges, people freezing to death, and the death of a culture so deep and long that its preservation is of critical importance. Gone are the days of work to survive. While this may seem like a morbid subject to discuss in a blog, one only has to look around this wild land to see the signs.

When families lived in sod houses, the winter would be a time for craft projects. Harsh winters in buried snow, Eskimos kept busy doing bead work, sewing mukluks, skinning and tanning caribou hides, plucking snow-white ptarmagins. The arctic wind blew across the tundra on the coast. At temperatures of -40 to -50 below zero, men would run their dog teams across frozen rivers and valleys looking for meat to provide freshness to their preserved meat, seal oil, and berries. Survival alone was enough to keep them from idleness.

When the snow travelers arrived in the 1950s, life in this region changed forever. These auto crafts made hunting easier, travel to distant places more accessible, and the ready need for cash to buy gasoline and spare parts when they broke down. Now money had to be made; capitalism had begun to take hold. With the establishment of native corporations that were given the task of being profitable for their shareholders, a subsistence lifestyle was just about finished. Even the last holdouts from civilization were seduced by the advances of modern technology. There was no going back. Only through a blending of the old and the new will provide the path to a better future for the people of this region.

So what do Kotzebue residents do during these Arctic storms? There are the same things that people in the lower 48 do to entertain themselves and pass the days: television, video games, the Internet. Some get involved in such craft projects as quilting and beading, sewing, knitting, crocheting, and scrapbooking.

People also drink; some drink a lot. With the opening of the city-run package store, alcohol is easier to purchase and less expensive. Instead of paying $300 for a 750 milileter bottle of Candian whiskey on the bootleg market, citizens of Kotzebue with a registration card may pick up the same amount for less than $40.

Let us not get into the argument for or against prohibition. Remember that prohibition didn't work during the 1930s. It did not work in Kotzebue either. Controlling the sale of alcohol is a much wiser and more responsible solution to the alcohol consumption issue. The city police and Alaska State Troopers are doing a good job of minimizing the negative affects of freer alcohol consumption.

Weather like this instills a curiosity in weather itself. Accuweather.com is always open on one of the tabs on my Internet web browser. The 'Feels Like' temperature, which factors the temperature with windchill, is of particular interest. As I write this post, the temperature is -1 but with the windchill it is -35 degrees. Most people have never experienced subzero temperatures that low. We marvel at how a person can live in temperatures that cold but we spend most of our time indoors and therefore don't experience such extremes that often.


Rick and I discuss our next trip Outside. Where will it be? What is the purpose of the trip? Will we use air miles to defray the cost? Life is difficult above the Arctic Circle, and time away is necessary. Perhaps we will go to Seattle, maybe Portland or Reedsport on the Oregon Coast.

I gaze out the window of the living room window again. The wind continues to blow the light, whiteness obscuring our view. The day's light has gone; disappeared behind the hills of frozen tundra. Time between television commercials run together. Tomorrow's forecast includes more snow but less wind. Winter weather advisory by the National Weather Service is scheduled to end tomorrow at 6 a.m. Some of those questions and ponderings remain.

Hallelujah Chorus -Quinhagak, Alaska

Check out the YouTube video below taken of fifth graders from Kuinerrarmiut Elitnaurviat school doing the Hallelujah Chorus from Handel's Messiah in Quinhagak. The video will fill your heart with happiness while offering some excellent footage of bush Alaska.

Quinhagak is a Yupik village of a little more than 500 and is located within the Bethel region. Kotzebue is 423 miles north of Bethel.

Beauty of Snow In Kotzebue

Sunrise this week in Kotzebue.

Outside our living room windows the snow is blowing from the sky and the huge snow drifts. This truly is a beautiful time of year in Kotzebue. Snow piled five feet high by plows make fun play toys for kids. Near the front door to our apartment, loose sheet metal clangs.

There is a feeling of antiquity in the wind, as though this land has endured ferocious gusts for thousands of years. Mountains have been made smooth by these winds, leaving treeless tundra behind. Snow and ice formed lagoons, rivers and lakes on the land.

We are expecting nearly two inches of new snow overnight, according to Accuweather. Over the weekend, temperatures warmed up to an unseasonable high of sometimes 25 degrees Fahrenheit. The existing snow began to slush and large areas of icy water hovered over the Kotzebue Sound. The lagoon and Swan Lake displayed patches of open water.

For the first time since October, I ventured out in an unzipped coat with gloveless hands earlier this week. My body has become accustomed to colder temperatures of the Far North. “It actually feels warm today,” I mentioned to Rick one morning after going outdoors to start the van. I carried a smile around town while rejoicing the warmer temperatures with friends and neighbors.

Today the temperatures began to fall. While the high was 21 degrees, the low will reach -5 before this night is through. Thursday temperatures will settle back down into the single digits during the day as the sky clears and the cold envelops us once more. A previously forecasted blizzard will pass us by and be replaced by frigid cold for a day or so until it snows again.

Even while the night is dark, I see the runway lights across the lagoon as I sit here writing this post. A streetlamp outside our window casts a beacon of light on our dead end street. The light has intensified the snow’s whiteness.

Each day we gain more light.

Each day we gain more light. A few weeks ago there was only 1.7 hours between sunrise and sunset. Today there were 2.7 hours and more than four hours between the moon’s rise and set. You might ask yourself why these amounts mean anything to me as I stare out at the night sky. As a matter of fact, I praise the gift of light these days. The expansion of daylight fills my heart with happiness for I know that soon the darkness will recede. Soon this light will awaken us from our holding places and wash away our sleepiness. Residents in this Eskimo village will celebrate the light’s return with late night activities such as bonfires on the beach, fishing and hunting.

But for now I will sit and stare out the window at the beauty. Outside, the runway lights have blurred in the blowing snow and the clanging of sheet metal carries out its rhythm. And I sit here writing this post and thinking of family and friends asleep in their beds. These thoughts bring a smile to my lips and a glow of love in my heart.

New Year's Eve in Kotzebue

Fireworks over the Kotzebue Sound on New Year's Eve.

Kotzebue was bustling with visitors from the villages and snow machine racers on New Year's Eve. Beginning Thursday, the NANA Regional Corporation, Northwest Arctic Borough School District and others hosted the Husky Shootout at the Kotzebue Middle/High School. Even a fireworks display was planned for midnight.

As light snow fell, I ventured out in search of eggs yesterday morning. After Rick had struck out at Alaska Commercial earlier, I drove to Rotman's to see if they had any. Even Egg Beaters would work for making cookies for the Spaghetti Feed fundraiser we are hosting at the club New Year's Day. Planning my route to include a stop at the post office, I drove past the Friends Church and turned down the side street next to the store. It was still dark as I stepped out of the van in my new parkie and walked into the store.

Rotman's is a locally owned grocery store that includes the sale of fabric and sewing supplies in a separate room, along with tee shirts and sweatshirts with the words "What Happens in Kotzebue, Stays in Kotzebue" screen printed on them. When I found the dairy case, there was one carton of Egg Beaters waiting on an empty shelf and no eggs in sight. At the register, the checker said they were hoping to get some eggs in later in the day. A.C. and Rotman's have been playing catch up with many grocery items after the recent blizzards prevented many flights into this hub city.

With the carton and a batch of Toll House Cookie dough in a plastic sack, I said good bye to the clerk of this clean and friendly store. She recommended that I call later to ascertain whether they had received eggs in the daily shipment. The crunching sound of snow on my boots was familiar as I opened the door to the van that I had left running during the visit to Rotman's. Idling vehicles in Kotzebue is a must this time of year but no one worries about whether their vehicle will be there when they come out of the store, post office or other buildings. Frequent cold starts are hard on a vehicle and should be avoided.

After parking at the post office, I walked the short distance across Shore Avenue and into the building to find the lobby nearly empty. Now that Christmas is over, the lines at the post office have diminished. A gift from the Bedards, along with the December issue of Better Homes and Gardens and other mail, had been stuffed into our small box. The line to the counter was only three deep while I waited to receive the package indicated by the yellow card that had been placed in the club's. I chatted with nurses and a doctor from Maniilaq Health Center before reaching the front of the line. The yellow card was a false alarm from a package that had already been picked up.

Exiting the Eskimo Building, I felt the breeze blowing off the frozen Kotzebue Sound. The temperature had warmed to 4 degrees. A front has moved in that is supposed to evolve into a winter storm New Year's night. Enjoying the first temperatures above zero in more than a week, I left my head uncovered for the trip home.

Rick and I drove to the Northwest Arctic Borough's Kotzebue High School gym to catch the semi-finals of the basketball tournament. After paying our five dollar apiece admission, we walked into the packed gym of 3,000 spectators.
The girls' teams from Noatak and Selawik were finishing their match up. Noatak won the game during regulation time.

Next up was a match up between the boys from Kiana and Selawik. While waiting for the game to begin, two girls from Kotzebue High School's volleyball team ran their push brooms across the gymnasium floor. Kiana was ahead when we made our way down the bleachers after the first quarter. Selawik rallied to win the game later that night, clinching a spot in the finals New Year's Day.

Kotzebue High School Gym bleachers are full of spectators.

We drove down Shore Avenue looking at the temporary raceway that had been set up on the Sound. Earlier this morning there had been large cones marking the route. The Night Riders were scheduled to race later in the evening. Heavier layers of clothing would be required for this outdoor activity.

After a dinner that consisted of trout Rick had caught on a fishing trip upriver this summer and various vegetables from this week's Full Circle Farm box, I sat down on the floor in our study to begin writing this post. After an hour, it was time to change for the race.

The snow machine race was a quite a sight with sharp white lights speeding over the ice in circles and tons of cars lining Shore Avenue to watch. Due to the road widening, there was ample room for both lanes of traffic and parking this year. Trucks were parked on the ice near the start/finish line. Teenagers from the villages and locals were hanging out while younger kids played in the snow. Periodic reports were broadcast on the radio.

Night Riders in foreground watching fireworks display.

The race was finishing up as the fireworks show began at midnight.  Local organizations had made donations for the large display that is traditional this time of year. Since the sun doesn't set on July 4th, fireworks are reserved for New Year's Eve when the night sky is near its darkest ebb. When the the grand finale occurred, cars and trucks began to pull out into the widened street for the short drive home. Snow machines and a few four-wheelers passed by with their riders dressed in a bundled fashion.

The new year has begun in this part of the world after a busy night of activities for the residents of Kotzebue and visitors from many other villages. Kotzebue once again played its part as a hub city in the Northwest Alaska region.

A Sunday During Holiday Season in Kotzebue

The light has finally arrived today. The wind is blowing snow off the large pile on the lagoon's shore. Huge ravens balance on wind currents, obviously enjoying the cruise. Inside the dishwasher is running and steam erupts from the camp gear kettle. Pouring hot water over lose-leaf, green tea, I steep in the warmth of another cold day in the Far North.

It's quiet outside on this Sunday morning. Residents are either in church or beginning to wake from a long night's sleep. A plane departs the runway across the lagoon on a scheduled flight to one of the other villages. Snow flurries are expected today but as of yet I haven't seen any. Life is taking hold of this subzero day.

During most of the day, Christmas lights can be seen in patterns affixed to power poles, hanging over Third Avenue and on the exteriors of homes. Apartment windows are strung with flashing LED lights and an artificial Christmas tree draws a sharp contrast to the white snow of an occasional front yard. Big red bows and tree boughs, purchased from Alaska Commercial, decorate the front door of an apartment down the way from us. 

This weekend Kotzebue has been filled with holiday shoppers from neighboring villages. The tables were occupied by families waiting for Asian food or burgers at Empress Restaurant when we ate there yesterday. The bustle of Christmas shoppers at A-C was evident as we drove past on Main Street. Cars, four-wheelers and snow machines were parked outside Rotman's while inside lookers and buyers had flooded the store.

Another holiday bazaar took place yesterday at the Senior Center. The month of December is filled with them. Jeannette and I attended two last weekend, purchased handcrafted Eskimo gifts and munched out on enchiladas for lunch at the Catholic Church before heading to the Lions Club for a second holiday bazaar. Various churches sponsor them as well as the girls basketball team and others.

Daily lines out the lobby door are common at Kotzebue's small post office. Turning the key in the lock of our post office box, I have mixed feelings about what the small space may contain each day. While a yellow card indicates a gift or a much-anticipated mail order item, it will surely result in a wait in line for up to an hour before receiving it from a tired and over-worked postal employee at the single open window.

Friday there were two yellow cards in our box: one was a Christmas gift from Rick's parents and the other was a 40-pound box that contained a new flat screen t.v. for Rick. Definitely worth the wait.

Beginning tomorrow many residents will board flights to Anchorage on Alaska Airlines to finish their holiday shopping. The streets of the state's largest city will be filled with out-of-towners looking for unique gifts unavailable in the rural areas. As people from the smaller villages migrate to the larger villages of Kotzebue, Nome, and Barrow, residents of these larger villages will travel to Anchorage or Fairbanks.

With the sound of the dryer in the background, I count the days before our trip Outside. Just nine more days before we fly to the Bay Area to visit my family. Making the last arrangements for lodging and transportation to the Santa Rosa and Lake county areas, the excitement of travel courses through my veins. My heart sighs as the reality of seeing my dad, Tony, siblings, and others sinks in deeper. I look up from my laptop in time to watch the tail of a cargo plane as it turned towards the terminal on a snow-plowed runway. The light remains for another few hours. Hopefully we will make it out to the tundra to see the sunset at 2:49 pm.

Parkie for Christmas

As the mercury in the thermometer became less and less visible, many women began to wear their parkies around Kotzebue. After seeing one that my neighbor had been given, I knew a parkie was the thing to have when facing the subzero temperatures. Working with Easter brought back memories of my mother and grandmother.

After arranging a meeting, Rick drove us to Easter's home on a recent Saturday afternoon. On the porch, several shee fish lay at her doorstep. Upon entering, we were greeted by three generations of family, the youngest only a toddler. Easter was seated at the kitchen table pulling white feathers from small birds. "I had told someone that I hadn't had ptarmigan for a long time and someone left them at my door," she explained as the feathers fell into the kitchen garbage can and the red blood covered her nimble fingers.

We spent about an hour in Easter's small home. Trying on parkies from different fabrics, we had a good laugh when I zipped up a large one and pulled the fabric away from my stomach. "This is too big," I said with a laugh. Easter had lain awake the previous night wondering how big I was and how tall. "The sleeves need to be longer," I said as I pulled the calico fabric down towards the back of my left hand.

Rick sat patiently in the living room with Easter's husband and a couple of her daughters while we rummaged through trim and fabric in the hallway sewing closet. We dug through various colors of trim and fabric searching for her measuring tape. When I found it, she said, "You help me find things. You can come by when I am not making you a parkie."

Rotman's store after the first snowfall that stuck.

We decided a brown fabric with maroon medallions accented with a buttercup swoosh would be the best although the purple with metallic thread was difficult to pass up. Easter explained that a heavy lining would be difficult to find but she would look at Rotman's while I searched online for a 10 ounce quilted fabric lining. In the end, she scored on an 11 ounce version that gave the parkie a pillow feel when folded up. The trim would be maroon with navy blue and gold accents and the ruff in wolverine with paws, as well as for the skirt hem. The cost of wolverine skins has reached $495 at Rotman's, Easter said. Beaver is traditionally used for the cuffs.

Easter's talent for sewing was renowned, especially with parkie's and mukluks. She had promised eight pairs of mukluks and had at least three other parkies in various stages of completion. The additional income from sewing helps to support Easter and her husband. She praised social security as her steady source of income, having put into the system while working 19 years at Maniilaq's hospital and several years working at Rotman's many years ago.

When we had finished the selection process, Easter returned to her work at the kitchen table. So much work to do, she commented. She spoke of her life in Kotzebue and leaving her parents in Point Hope back in the 1930s after she married. When we departed, my heart was filled with love for her.

Four days later, Easter left a message on our answering machine saying, "Where are you? I try to find you but you are not there. Your parkie is done and you can come pick it up."She had worked on it for three days, staying up until 4am on some nights.

Seeing the finished parkie laying on the couch, I squealed. Easter pointed out that the ruff had the paws. I admired the parkie's stitching and the dark colored fur cuffs. After struggling with the zipper she helped. Reaching into my purse, I pulled out the payment check and folded it in half. Handing it to her, she thanked me. We talked about sewing a short parkie for Rick after Christmas sometime. The price was less than a third the cost of a longer parkie.

Departing, I thanked her for her beautiful work. Soon Rick would also marvel at the care and love Easter put into this beautiful parkie.  Working with her on this project was like returning to my girlhood visiting my grandmother and working on sewing projects with Mom.

Veterans Day in Kotzebue

Presentation of the colors.

Many arrived this morning for the Veterans Day Celebration at the Northwest Arctic Heritage Center where a statue commemorating those who served honoring in the Alaska Territorial Guard during World War II. Heartfelt remarks were made regarding those native Alaskans who answered the first call of duty back in the early 1940s. Tears fell for those who died and for those who fought to maintain our freedom.

A celebration for veterans began in Kotzebue during the early 1980s when a handful of locals first began to assemble at the Senior Citizens Cultural Center to share their stories. The ATG servicemen were much younger then, one of the presenters recounted. Each year they talked of their participation in the second world war. ATG servicemen protected Alaska's shores from a possible Japanese attack. Some fought when the Japanese invaded our country on the Aleutian Islands. Others kept the supply line safe while aircraft was transported to Russia to fight the Germans on the Eastern Front.

Highest Ranking Native Alaskan in U.S. military.

The commemoration of veterans has grown over the years and culminated into the most involved celebration yet. Activities included a greeting and remarks by Brigadier General Julio Banez whose father had served in the military while living in Alaska. Among those participating in the ceremony included members of the brigadier general's staff, a color guard and Sergeant Major Wilfred Lane, the highest ranking native Alaskan serving in the U.S. military.

Present were a few ATG veterans that the Northwest Arctic borough had flown in from nearby villages. The president of the Borough Assembly Walter Sampson spoke of the effects of being a soldier had been on his life. His gratitude, and that of his comrades, were expressed in his slow and heartfelt words. He encouraged us to thank veterans for their service. He said that soldiers carry a guilt for those who did not make it home.

Added to the ceremony was the presentation of a medal to the family of the late ATG serviceman James Oyagachiaq Norton Sr. Before his recent passing at age 97, he was the eldest elder in the region. One of his daughters works for the city and his son-in-law is the mayor of Kotzebue.

Nikaitchuat Singers from the Kotzebue IRA immersion school

As part of the festivities, the Nikaitchuat Singers performed the pledge of allegiance and sang My Country Tis of Thee in Inupiak. Dressed in traditional clothing, these young children attend the immersion school in town. The Northern Lights Dancers performed an Inupiak welcome dance. Dignitaries, who represent our region on the state and federal level, were also in attendance. State representative Reggie Joule offered words of praise for those served and encouraged the audience to do the same.

State representative Reggie Joule.

The patriotism shared was deep and heartfelt. May this celebration serve as a reminder to all of us to be grateful to veterans who fought to maintain our freedom and for those all over the world who are continuing to do so on our behalf. May we give praise and honor to those who served or continue to serve our country in this way.

Trip to Kivalina

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Early morning departure for Kivalina.

This was my second trip to Kivalina, the native village located on a thin peninsula north of Kotzebue. The mission was to provide assistance in this club's re-opening after a two-year closure. When I arrived at ERA Aviation the day after the trip to Noorvik, employees recognized me.

The flight to Kivalina involved two stops: one to the village of Noatak and the other to Red Dog Mine. The tundra was tinged with fushia leftover from the sunrise. The cold weather is claiming the lagoons and lakes with its icy tendrils. Crossing over mountains with snow-tipped peaks, I clicked off photos.

After twenty minutes, we landed in Noatak where our bush pilot began unloading case after case of Pepsi. While loading the atv-powered trailer destined for the native store, its owner commented, "They love soda in the villages."

Two college students climbed aboard with their cameras and overnight bags. They are doing a research paper on how climate changes are affecting native fishing habits in Northwest Alaskan villages. Initially these University of Alaska-Fairbanks women interviewed the village elders but later realized the importance of interviewing younger fishermen as they had also experienced a change in fishing practices.

The air strip at Red Dog Mine was our next destination. This paved and well-lit airstrip is capable of accommodating jet landings. The mine is situated in a small valley surrounded by gorgeous mountains. We picked up a few passengers, including one of my advisory board members.

Kivalina on a narrow peninsula

Heading due west, the passenger plane made its way for the tiny peninsula where Kivalina is currently situated. The town had already been relocated once. Recent discussions about moving the town again had ended with a decision to stay put. With the ocean on three sides of the village, I am unnerved by the narrowness of the land.  Our pilot skillfully lands on their tiny airstrip. There is snow on the ground, and the small ocean waves lap the disappearing beach.

After meeting up with Rose, we rode her four wheeler into the village and stopped at the native store. We decided to do the interviews at the new clubhouse. After finding the heating oil valve, she warmed the freezing room and the interviews commenced -- 11 of them for two positions. Each one desiring a job, most not having graduated from high school.

We took a break for an advisory board meeting. Into the gym we went for cafeteria food and then made our way in the faculty lounge to discuss the progress of the club's opening and how each partner will be benefited by its involvement in the club. A quick trip to the restroom and then the short walk back to the clubhouse, we completed our last interviews.

We made our picks and then it was time to rush to the airstrip to meet our return flight. We walked the short distance to the airstrip and met up with a subsistence hunter sitting on a four-wheeler. The man, dressed in traditional Inupiat clothing, spoke informatively of the caribou's late arrival and which seals to hunt. His mannerisms echoed what I had read in books.

On the return trip, Fritz and I talked of how corporate giving was changing. More discernment of need and a focus on greater impact are two methodologies practiced by corporations. Saying good bye for now, Fritz deplaned at Red Dog. The remainder of the flight included a stop in Noatak to unload passengers and the boarding of a mentor for bush teachers. Our discussions revealed the nature of her work with new teachers, who need additional tools necessary to be successful. The program has been highly successful.

Seeing the Kotzebue skyline, I sighed and the pilot navigated the landing at the paved airstrip in this hub city. After thanking the pilot, I walked towards the white van feeling discombobulated and tired from two days of travel. After texting Rick of my arrival, I drove the short distance home. The familiarity of the city was a comfort of sorts.

Visit to the Eskimo village of Noorvik

Noorvik is situated on the right bank of the Nazuruk Channel of the Kobuk River.

Traveling to Noorvik early last Monday morning proved to be quite eventful. Snow had fallen in Kotzebue on Sunday night and the locks on the van had frozen. Two boxes filled with supplies and a computer sat on the backseat waiting to be checked as luggage for the 40-minute flight to this small village. There was some urgency to deliver the supplies to the Noorvik club as I had heard they had almost nothing. The unit manager needed help in many ways.

Late last week we had received an email from the unit manager saying she was going to close the club if she didn't get some help. The club sees 40 kids a day. These very active children were too much for one person to provide a safe, clean, and fun place for them to be. I had to get on that plane, with those two boxes, and visit her.

As the time ticked away, the fire chief worked unsuccessfully to open the lock with a slim jim. Finally a fellow firefighter unlocked it. After contacting ERA Transportation to urge them to delay the departure, I raced to their terminal through the snowy streets of Kotzebue. After apologizing to the pilot, he explained their departure had been delayed so that they could spray down ice from the plane and runway.

Our Cessna Grand Carovan was fully loaded with cargo and passengers as we raced down the runway for a smooth liftoff. I prayed quietly thanking God for a safe journey and for the opportunity to serve the Noorvik community.

We flew over lagoons and ponds already iced over on their edges. Following the Noatak River the soggy tundra gleamed burgundy and brown. As we neared Kiana, a clearing on a nearby hill graced wooden crosses. At the bottom of this forested hill were discarded wooden boats and kayaks.

After ten minutes of unloading and then loading, the Cessna gathered momentum and lifted off the gravel air strip. When we landed in Noorvik. Patricia and a friend met me at the gravel airstrip in a red pick up. Her friend explained that she had barely enough gas to make the one mile journey to the airport and back. The fuel pump had been out of service for a few days.

Noorvik City Hall

The club is located across the dirt road from City Hall. Yellow caution tape and the city's line crew were running a water and sewer lines from the main to the Club's metal building. The dreariness of the buildings pulled on my heart. This club has no running water nor a toilet. The sign above the door showed signs of wear from extreme cold temperatures and wind.

Entering the kunychuck and then through the main door to the club, the heartbreak went deeper as I saw the nearly empty clubhouse. Children's artwork was taped to the white walls, along with the rules to the club. Patricia showed me the broken foos ball table, a game table the Kotzebue club had given her and a table with four chairs around it. There were a several board games, crayons, and colored pencils.

After interviewing two potential part-time instructors and replacing Patricia's computer, the morning had passed. In need of some facilities and lunch, I headed for city hall. I spoke with the local Nana Corporation representative and peaked through the door of the borough office. After seeing the bathroom downstairs, I went upstairs, met with the city clerk, and used their bathroom.

Walking down the dirt road, I nervously ventured farther from the club for a visit with the local native village government. Four wheelers and walkers passed as I turned the corner leaving the main road. Before speaking with the tribal leader, I shared stories of the success of Kotzebue's package store and learned of the difficulties of making progress in this village. The tribal manager Clara Brown, a very caring woman, promised to help find volunteers for the club. She also spoke of other support the IRA gives for the club.

Noorvik School appeared as a palace in Noorvik.

Upon the completion of our conversation, I made my way to the village's gorgeous school building. It is truly an oasis with its oak colored counters and window sills and tile floors. What a sharp contrast to the dirt streets and aging government housing outside. The principal had been expecting me. We had met last Friday in Kotzebue at Bering Air waiting for his flight back to Noorvik. We discussed how we could mutually assist local youths.

When I returned to the club, Patricia spoke of the many kids who had been in the club that day. I assured her the part time person would start in about a week and of others who promised to help. Relieved, we began making arrangements for me to return to the airstrip. While waiting outside the club, I ate the peanut butter and jelly sandwich I had made that morning. I was grateful Rick reminded me to bring food for the trip. Soon afterward a young teacher arrived on a four wheeler for the short ride to the airport. After waiting for five minutes, the small plane arrived. After the short flight, we arrived safely in Kotzebue. Driving the short distance home, I was amazed at yet another contrast: this hub city and village life. Happy to be home.

Suicide Prevention

Recently I was reminded how important love is when someone reached out for help after taking a bunch of prescription drugs. There was a suicide note in his pocket at the time. Because he reached out, he is alive today. In Kotzebue and the villages of the Northwest Arctic Borough, suicide is a reality that touches nearly all of us either up close or distantly.

Last year there were three suicides here. While we were fortunate that this young man reached out for help, there are countless others near us who will not. Suicide among Alaska natives is commonly linked with depression and mental illness, which often goes untreated in rural areas, as well as with alcoholism. Disconnection from their culture and poverty are other factors that increase the chances of suicide. The highest rates of suicide among natives are between the ages of 20 and 29.

I am writing this post to tell you of the young man mentioned above and because Monday is the beginning of Yellow Ribbon Week at the Club. There will be programs to teach our members about the realities of suicide and to celebrate life, a life worth living. Our members will learn what to say to someone who is considering suicide and what to do if someone they know takes that path.

We will celebrate life because we need to remember how blessed we are, especially those at risk. We need to remember that there are those around who love us, those who would be deeply impacted if we were no longer living. There are those people whose lives we have touched.

We also need to be reminded of our uniqueness and our sameness. God's plan for each of us needs to be carried out by us. Only we can deliver God's mail.

So this week celebrate life. We all have much to be grateful for. Give yourself when you are prompted. Make someone feel loved. And remember that you are dear to your family and friends.

Hunting Season

Aerial of Kotzebue in the background and the tundra nearby.

Lately in the early morning I've been hearing some distant popping sounds. They seemed familiar and yesterday I learned why. Hunting season has begun. At the club, youth talked of their excitement to hunt caribou this weekend. Some bragged of being permitted to skip school to hunt.

Travis told us that 90 percent of his family's meat diet is comprised of caribou they hunt. He explained that it is a waste of money to buy meat at the A.C. store, and tags for caribou are easy to get. Of his hunting challenges, this seventh grader said he was too little to carry even one caribou leg. Each one could weigh roughly two hundred pounds.

With a glow in his face, Travis explained that it takes two hours to skin the large animals, bleed and butcher them. Transporting he meat home can involve many trips on atv trailers. (Shooting a caribou from the water is easier because it can be hauled back with the boat.) The meat is hung up to dry and the hide can be bleached with sourdough or willow bark.

During the winter, some polar bears come down from the north to hunt. Travis told us of a trip on his snow machine where he came too close to one. The bear was quickly frightened away by Travis's father. He had heard stories of them going into the villages looking for food.

Travis knows a lot about the polar bear. Our fourteen-year-old expert said they hunt caribou and seal. These huge animals wait for their prey on the thick ice of the Kotzebue Sound. They can see seals swimming below the ice are there to greet them when one comes up for air or to rest. The ice has been as thick as ten feet in years past, he said. Ice fishing was impossible because the augers weren't long enough to cut the hole in the ice. Doesn't this sound like some National Geographic show about the far north? This is real life here.

Our former clubhouse manager hunts seal. A clubhouse youth talked proudly of Lance bringing in a seal and teaching club members to skin and butcher it. Chase spoke of how they learned to tan the skin and extract the oil from the seal that Lance killed. The remnants of seal oil pervades the air of the downstairs club area.

Lance offered me a taste of the oil from a jar that had been stored in one of the club's refrigerators. It tastes like fish. He said it's good on blueberries and of course people also cook with it.

Yesterday there was a mass exodus from town to hunt or go to camp. Outside our living room window, I watched people back their boats into the Sound last night. The small ramp has been quiet today and the familiar popping sounds could be heard in the distance.

Learning the Basics

Recently I learned some of the simple things required to make life work when moving to a new state. It can be very embarrassing to ask questions about such things as how to get gas, getting a post office box key that works, and what it takes to make a long distance phone call. Sometimes we bungle along and eventually figure these things out through trial and error. Asking for help is usually the shortest route to accomplishment.

One morning mid last week, I drove in the company van to the post office as usual after the morning jet. It had rained the previous night and therefore had to maneuver around large puddles on the gravely roads. When I tried the new key that I bought for the company's p.o. box, it didn't work. Same problem as last week but with a different key.
 
This time I noticed the lock was pretty lose so I went to the counter to let them know. The postmaster inspected the back side of the lock and determined it was loose. After tightening the lock back into position, she took her can of WD 40 to the external side of the lock. Spraying the key with WD-40, she crammed the key into the lock. While stiff at first, the key began to easily turn the tumblers restoring the key's worth in opening the lock. A kind and thorough service she did perform.

In the early afternoon, Kotzebue Electric Association's auto repair staff members Harold and Claude came by to fix the oil leak in the van. After tightening the oil filter, there were no more drips. They also made the turn signals work. Safe driving returned to the van.

The cell phone was next on the list of fixes. As many friends and family know, I've been unable to dial out or accept calls on my Oregon cell phone. Sometimes first thing in the morning, a text message to Rick can be made before the phone stops sending or receiving. At the cell phone carrier's office the nice woman behind the counter punched some buttons, thinking it was a setting issue. When she reviewed the numbers into the address book, she said it is not necessary to use the area code when calling someone in the State of Alaska. The phone would dial out but then drop the call. After she finally fixed it, I said, "I knew you could fix it! You're the one who knows how to get any problem fixed.

Due to a change in attitude, the above changes were able to happen. Possibility thinking helped move past the above obstacles. Changing one's attitude about how things work can really produce different outcomes.

Memorial for Former Senator Ted Stevens

 

Senator Ted Stevens was beloved by many people in his home state of Alaska. The affects of his works have been far reaching. No matter what a person's politics, you have to admire what he accomplished for the Alaska people.

Former Senator Stevens and four others were killed in a plane crash on Monday near the small fishing town of Dillingham, in Southwest Alaska. There were nine people on board the 1957 DeHavilland DHC-3 Otter when it crashed into a rocky, brush-covered hillside. Among the survivors are former NASA chief Sean O’Keefe and his son Kevin, who were treated for broken bones and released from a hospital in Anchorage. Funeral arrangements are set for next Wednesday at the All Saints Episcopal Church in Anchorage.

While walking home from Alaska Commercial (AC) today, I came across a memorial to Senator Stevens near the health center. Beneath a hand-painted sign was a chicken-wire grid where bouquets of flowers had been inserted. A large teddy bear was was attached with wire to the mesh. With a sense of urgency, I rushed home to get my camera. This was something that had to be captured and documented. Yesterday there was a bundle of plastic flowers that had been affixed to a post of the unfinished sign. At the time, I wondered if someone had died there like you see along the highway sometimes. Well not there, but someone very important had died and a memorial for one of Alaska's most famous citizen was coming alive.

 

Remembrances could be seen and felt everywhere. Flags were flying at half staff at the health center and city hall. Tributes to the man have been airing on the radio. Articles can be found in newspapers and on the Internet.

Our community mourns the loss of this great man. Many persons around the state will fly to Anchorage for the service. No one can rival the popularity of this man of Alaska. He is missed.

Beginning Observations

Life in Kotzebue is a mix of old culture and new conveniences. While most are no longer dependent on subsistence living, there is a gap between early traditions and modern culture. Fishing camps, beaver furs, atvs, snow mobiles, ice fishing and ipods are components of a life that has broken with its past. While the night makes a short appearance this time of year, the winter darkness is quickly approaching. All-night get-togethers and cruising the streets are summer activities that will soon be replaced by snow mobiles, dog mushers, and take out meals.

The experiences you will find on this blog are only slivers of the whole that is occurring here. They are one perspective of many. I came here for love, to love a good man. Such a choice has brought fullness to my life and to his. Future posts will consist of replays, interpretations and wonderings of the Eskimo culture, which is as thick and impenetrable as the permafrost upon which we all walk.

Today while out garage saling, we drove past a fish camp at North Beach. The huts appeared to be more like awnings with support posts. Some had wooden roofs and plywood walls, none were permanent. Quartered salmon were drying while suspended from the ceiling of one of the structures. Farther down the shore was a large crane offloading nets, filled with freshly caught chum salmon, into steel bins. They will be flown out on the afternoon jet. Last night we passed a semi truck loaded with fish-filled bins making their way to the airport to fly out on the evening jet.

Work on Shore Drive has caused delays for vehicle traffic. With funds from the state Department of Transportation, large bump outs or vistas are being constructed out into the Kotzebue Sound. A wall of metal sheet piling is being installed off shore. When the steel pilings hit permafrost, a large driver cuts through the icy bottom. Noise complaints increase when the driver is working. One of the vistas has been receiving fill that arrived on the July barge. Others are still under construction and are due to be  completed at the end of October. Repaving of the street is scheduled for next summer.

Along Shore Drive are some of the oldest homes. A mix of old log cabins and stick homes line the street. Gray logs brought from 'up river' were used to build these ancient structures and house a few residents while colorful one- and two-story homes with larger windows that face the water are home to others. One of my favorites is a cabin that bears a welcome sign 'Kotzebue, Alaska,' and is located near the post office. Relics of these old structures have been cast off into vacant lots. They hint at an earlier time.

The local gathering spot is the U.S. Post Office where residents visit sometimes two or three times a day waiting for packages from the Outside. To a person from the Lower 48, the building is oversized for the town's population. Mail of all sizes is brought in from Anchorage by Alaska Airlines jets that land here three times a day. Orders online comprise much of the commerce around town.

While I was at the P.O. yesterday, the Harris family had put up tables outside the lobby for selling homemade sweets like cookies, cinnamon rolls, and buns. There was also homemade chili. I purchased some cinnamon rolls. But it was too early for the chili.  On one of the tables was a photo of a couple in Eskimo clothing that was taken around the end of the 1800s. The elderly women proudly explained that the Harris's were the largest family in Kotzebue before the settlers came. The couple in the photo had 165 grandchildren. A family reunion was planned for a camp across the river. The women were raising money to fly family members to the camp for the August 9 & 10th even. Life goes on.

The purpose of this blog is to share what I've seen of life in Kotzebue, exactly 33 miles above the Arctic Circle.  Periodic entries and photos will be made. I hope those who read it will find it interesting and enlightening.